In tough times people don't want emulsions and tiny bites hanging from elaborate mechanisms (that's you Alinea). They want something they recognize, something grandma made, or perhaps something hearty despite lean economic times. Mostly people want something familiar, like La Grande Orange. Though the name is a mouthful for simpler folk, the dishes at LGO are exactly what you want on a cool Sunday evening or a lazy Wednesday night after a long Hump Day. Stationed in the Del Mar Gold Line stop, LGO states the serious intent of its food with a quote from Pasadena-native Julia Child hovering over the kitchen: "Some people like to paint pictures or do gardening or built a boat in the basement. Other people get a tremendous pleasure out of the kitchen because cooking is just as creative and imaginative an activity as drawing or wood carving or music."
We started out with their signature deviled eggs, which are better off with some "no-charge" bacon bits and lined up in a clean row of six. For two of us, we ordered half and this excellent studio-like photo came out. I'm quite pleased. The texture was perfect and the hint of mustard in the filling belied the heavy yolks.
For entree, we had the braised short rib topped with egg (another NC, or no charge as designated on the menu). Peeling away the flattened fried egg, we saw a marvelous mound of tender short rib embdedded on a bevy of a root vegetables and mashed potatoes. We had the farmer's market-fresh wax beans and macaroni & cheese on the side. Wax beans were blanched and slightly seasoned, preserving their excellent color and crunchy bite. The macaroni was ever-so-slightly on the watery side, but the rich cheese was forgiving. Both were successful pairings to the braised meat.
On previous occasions I've had the ahi tuna burger, fried chicken, and acqua pazza (a white fish). All were solidly delicious though not necessarily groundbreaking. Desserts were superlative, with a Key Lime pie that could temper any anxieties. With such approachable fare at affordable prices just slightly above your standard-issue Cheesecake Factory, La Grande Orange lets you cherish what you have while helping you appreciate the present. The environs are sleek but the food is warm, pure comfort.
La Grande Orange Cafe
260 South Raymond Avenue
Pasadena, CA 91105
(626)-356-4444
