Foxy's: Beefy Breakfast of Champions

Carne asada is a beautiful thing if done well, flank or skirt steak that's well marinated and perhaps a bit charred. It's not your mother's filet mignon, this is one beefy piece of meat and there's no better place for carne asada for breakfast than at the iconic Foxy's in Glendale. I've been coming here for years, when my dad discovered its Mammoth Mountain-like chalet house tucked into a simple lot along Colorado Blvd. Though the restaurant is now is the shadows of the massive Americana at Brand, Foxy's still shines as the premier brunch spot in Glendale, where dozens of eager diners come every morning.

The best thing at Foxy's is the carne asada and eggs, a generous heap of meat that's griddled and bursting with marinated flavor. Slightly acidic and probably well dusted with paprika, cumin, and other rich spices, this baby holds up well to the accompanying eggs, beans, and rice. Packets of warm torillas help you piece the meal together with another starchy counterpoint.

This is a man's breakfast, though I'm sure an hungry lady could consume this as her morning vittles with delight. It's best to come early, but you'll undoubtedly face a wait at Foxy's. Don't worry - there are numerous dining areas including a vast patio and two separte rooms inside the massive tent-looking edifice. Parking can be tough but there's a secret lot in the back along Elk Street with another 20-some spaces.

Breakfast is a pricey $13 but it's worth it, especially for the mound of beef you get. Also, I believe they have a special on Mondays where carne asada is $6. It's probably the leftovers from the weekend, but beef doesn't go back as quickly as fish does, so you probably won't need to avoid the Bourdainian Mondays (his tombstone epithet will say, "don't eat fish on Mondays" per his famous warning in Kitchen Confidential).

Foxy's Restaurant
206 W Colorado St
Glendale, CA‎
(818) 246-0244‎

Mamita Restaurant: Hidden Peruvian

I want to say that I discovered this small Peruvian restaurant on Brand Blvd, nestled between the hulking BMW and Mercedes deaderships, but it's been here for a long time. Exactly how long, I can't say, but I was the first to post a review of the place on Yelp a few years ago and now it has 33 mostly positive reviews. But don't let that validate this place, instead see for yourself: I like to start my meal here with a nice cold Inca Kola, which I came to love at Porto's Bakery just down the street. This bubble-gum like soda is the bane of my girlfriend Christine, but I love its candy-sweetness and its uber yellow color. A squirt of this spicy green called aji, made from ground lettuce and chiles.

The star of the menu is the saltado de mariscos, a bursting plateau de mer comprised of fresh octapi (plural octopus), squid, and shrimp atop thick french fries sided with onions and tomatoes. Wonderful seasoning embellishes the plate as the luscious sauce soaks the fries and rice.

A chicken milanesa is another excellent dish at Mamita, a crispy, seasoned crust on a moisture-laden pounded chicken breast. My mother used to make this for me (Brazilians love milanesa too).

Prices are reasonable and service is quick at this no-decor locale, but when it comes to ethnic cuisine and especially at this Peruvian joint, it's really all about the food.

Mamita Restaurant
714 S Brand Blvd
Glendale, CA 91204
(818) 243-5121

Palate Food + Wine: Gourmet Glendale

I've been a resident of Glendale for over 15 years. Glendale had one slightly remarkable restaurant (besides the solid Middle Eastern fare and legendary Porto's) and it was in the space that Palate now occupies on South Brand Blvd. That restaurant was called Cinnabar and I recall taking my parents and grandparents there, where they were horrified by the trendy New American cuisine with Asian inflections before their eyes. The massive Buddha statue and scents of incense turned them (and me) off right away.

A few weeks ago, just before the Ms. Virbila's review in the LAT, I hastily visited Palate with my foodie father on a quiet Monday evening. We didn't have a reservation so we sat at the nicely appointed bar.

We order two short glasses of white wine and paired it with a slew of seafood dishes. A loaf of wheaty bread and soft sheet of butter with sel gris sprinkled on top started it off.



I wanted to try something edgier, meaner - perhaps the pork belly which Virbila lauded in her review. Sadly, my dad has been experiencing some digestive issues, with high stomach acids leading to easy upset stomachs. We settled for the porkfolio, a battery of charcuterie meats that would make Michael Ruhlman smile.



Also, it was my first attempt at lardo (reading of the fabled fat from J.Gold and my other foodie friend Daniel). The plate was well constructed and generous in its portioning.

Next came the small plates - halibut, scallops and potatoes. The halibut was a tad dry but it was well seasoned. Buttery clams, micro greens, and a textbook velvety sauce rounded out the dish. Scallops were well pan-fried but the pairing with shelling beans seems an odd textural combination. The sauce was also a perfect velvet, but overall the dish missed the mark because of the aforementioned combo. The potatoes were well cooked and the accompanying onions were amazingly caramelized. The watery sauce seemed extraneous though.





We ended with a trio of cheeses, including a strong blue cheese and an aged cheddar, which my dad loved.



I'm not sure if Virbila's review was appropriate for three stars, but I would have given just under that for execution. I need to return and try the meat dishes. The dishes were well composed and ingredients were top notch, but the pairings were often unusual or misplaced. Still, it's the best food one can get in Glendale, so I shall be wise to return.