I first met Chef Marc Gold in the bowels of Pitfire Pizza Co. in Downtown LA, where he was showing us his snap-together sous-vide machine. He'd been consulting on their menu there, putting on sous-vide short ribs at rock bottom prices. Before that, he'd garnered a three-star review from Times critic S. Irene Virbila for his efforts at Leatherby's Cafe Rouge. A weathered, journeyman chef, it was then that he told me his dream restaurant concept - a neighborhood restaurant with an inviting ambiance, super-fresh seafood, and affordable prices. Such a restaurant is difficult to find, with places such as Providence and Water Grill taking up the upper crust of the LA seafood genre.
Of course it's difficult to execute such a strategy given the high cost of seafood, but I believe Chef Marc has a clear vision that will latch on with the public. I was invited here (or rather, I invited myself after asking if I could get a table!) for a preview dinner, just days before the official grand opening of Eva Restaurant, located in the former Hatfield's space on Beverly Blvd.
Chef Marc put on a brighter paint-job, a creamy ecru palette to match the warm green hues on the chairs, awning, and typeface. I loved the square menus in a clean font, easy-to-read font. The lights were brighter than they ever were at Hatfield's and the space seemed more opened after Gold chopped through some windows to reveal the kitchen at work. The rest of the layout is relatively the same, though that's not necessarily a bad thing.
Into Riedel stemware went a glass of white Burgundy and white Bordeaux, offerings from the mainly French wine list, including a high-end reserve list with highlights from Corton-Charlemagne, Montrachet, Haut-Brion, and Sauternes. The more food-friendly French wines should pair nicely with the seafood and overall lighter fare at Eva.
These glasses went with the onion soup, a creamy though not overt soup poured tableside over gentle quenelles of minced carrot, eggplant, and broccoli. It was an aromatic, warm beginning to the meal, as the French say that nothing whets an appetite quite like soup. While the sweet, subtle flavor of the onion was the main flavor, I wished it were even more intense.
My dad had the burrata ravioli, a supreme comfort dish of gooey, stringy, slightly salty burrata incased in fresh pasta pockets and lathered in a creamy corn glaze. The truffle flavor was faint, but it didn't matter, as the ravioli's texture and luscious flavor shined. The intensity of the corn flavor simply made me smile.
For the main courses, we had pairings of Bordeaux Superior and a Californian palate-friendly Burgundy of mostly Pinor Noir. The Bordeaux was forward with cassis and a stolid structure (a credit to the Merlot) while the Burgundy had an elegance and sweeter finish that paired beautifully with the hokkaido scallops. That dish, sided with plain spanish rice cooked a la risotto, came with leaves of brussel sprouts and smokey chorizo. Thin strips of candied orange added a tangy, sweet bite and completed the beautiful presentation.
My dad's main course was a thick slice of poached beef tenderloin, nearly sous-vided (not exactly that preparation, but similar), and sided with an array of browned cauliflower and tender broccoli. A salsa verde came on top the beef, adding a tart counterpoint to the rich, tender meat. My father was completely enamored by this dish, marveling at the combination of earthy vegetables and the stellar tenderloin.
The cheese course might have been the five best cheeses I've had this year, with a smokey goatsmilk cheese, 12-year old Hook's Cheddar, and a dreamy gorgonzola the highlights. Assorted cookies featured chocolate chip and a lemon-nut cookie, among others. The dusting of confectioner's sugar seemed unnecessary but still oddly pretty.
The jovial chef loves to chat with diners and ask about their experience. He's as personable as he is skilled. His attention to detail for each ingredients matches some of the top restaurants in the city. Time will tell as to whether Eva Restaurant will match the Michelin-starred quality of Hatfield's, but based on this initial sneak-peek, I'm optimistic. A look at what would've been a very modestly-priced check for this wonderful experience is a good reason enough.
Eva Restaurant
7458 Beverly Blvd.
Los Angeles, CA 90036
323.634.0700
