Early morning at Pal Cabron in Koreatown
I don't think David was too fond of me after I said I was going to bring ice cream to the last Magnum pop-up at Biergarten, and I didn't. I was afraid that the only flavors I had left - coffees and chocolates wouldn't pair well with any wines. That kind of underestimation is the kind that can get you in trouble with David, as he's known to pair anything and everything. I bet you could he could pair a stale ice cream cone with some obscure Croatian wine and make it taste like fraise des bois on the front palate with an effervescent, creamy finish.
I won't do that again - this time when I can actually attend the dinner, I'll bring some pints. Or else I truly deserve the ire of Haskell. To fill you in on Magnum, it's the latest pop-up concept from chef Joseph Mahon and David Haskell. There's enough that's been said about these two but Mahon's latest post at Bastide and Haskell's various posts are top New York, Paris, and L.A. restaurants should speak for themselves.
Since Ludo's currently looking for his next pop-up, I'd recommend Magnum's latest location at Pal Cabron, Bricia and Fernando Lopez's gem of a restaurant on the southern throes of Koreatown. The Lopezes recently renovated the space, modernizing it and making it appropriate for their cemitas and tlayudas concept.
Look for Haskell to bring in his whole posse of front-of-house crew. I'm good friends with a number of them, so it should be a raucous evening of great food and wine pairings. There's a slew of menu options, but if you're going to make the most of it, I'd recommend going "big," because how can there be any other option at a pop-up called "Magnum".
But if you must know, the basic four-course menu for $48 is below. The accompanying wine pairing is $27.
Pozole with Romaine/ Cilantro/ Mint/ Radish/ Lime
Squid with Chorizo/ Cucumber/ Jicama/ Sesame Seeds
Flank Steak with Cactus Salad/ Chilies/ Grilled Corn Sauce
Flan with Pineapple/ Vanilla-Carmel Sauce
The next complement of dishes would be the following, and cost $72 for all 8 courses:
Chilled Poached Shrimp with Cabbage/ Grated Horseradish/ Tomato-Ketchup Sauce
Poached Egg with Fried Pig Ears/ Black Beans/ Caramelized Onions
Roasted Beet Salad with Crispy Veal Tongue/ Wild Arugula/ Pumpkin Seeds/ Creamy Feta Dressing
Scallop with Crushed Avocado/ Chickpeas/ Spicy Tomato-Mussel Broth
The food and wine pairings for all 8 courses will be $120. You won't be able to split courses or pairings, but you can get wines by the glass if you wish. Get your reservation by emailing magnumdh AT gmail DOT com or calling 323-798-4648.
Cemitas y Tlayudas Pal Cabron
3337 1/2 W. 8th St, Los Angeles, CA 90005