Xoco - Chicago, IL - Bayless's Soups and Sandwiches (Caldos y Tortas)

If there's any chef that's universally well known in the U.S., it might be Rick Bayless. The tireless champion of authentic Mexican cuisine, he's made inroads as the nation's authority on Mexican food. I'm encouraged to hear that my friends Bill of StreetgourmetLA and Javier of Teenage Glutster are supporters of Rick Bayless despite his being of non-Mexican heritage. I remember watching episodes of Mexico: One Plate at a Time on PBS and noting his collected, candid portrayal of regional Mexican cuisine. He seems like the kind of neighbor you'd want to have, cooking up redolent menudos on Saturdays and barbacoas on Sundays for the neighborhood. Bayless' notoreity only grew exponentially when he was crowned the first Top Chef Master in the series' first season.

A trip to Chicago didn't seem complete without a visit to one of the restaurants, the three of which reside continguously. Xoco, the lunch spot focusing on tortas and caldos, takes the nook on the corner, where lines could stretch around the block. I was fortunate enough to have a late lunch afer grabbing an Italian Beef Sandwich from Portillo's (apparently pronounced pour-TIL-oh's, not pour-TEE-yoh's).

I was undaunted by the prospect of eating here again after Portillo's, mostly because I knew the portions at Rick Bayless' wouldn't resemble something I'd expect from East LA or even the Chicago neighborhood of Pilsen (A Latino enclave). I made my order at the counter and took a number for my order.

Though I should have asked for it after the meal, my fresh-ground Aztec cacao, which comes spiced with cinnamon, came first. It also came temptingly with Xoco's churro, cut almost like a truncated Jesus fish-shape and sprinkled heavily with spiced sugar. I couldn't help but dipping the churro into the thick cacao, which was neither too sweet nor too rich. Still, I held off until my caldo was served.



I ordered the wood-fired chicken pozole, a modest but adequate (for my already half-full belly) portion. The soup was piping hot and steaming with the delicious aromas of herbs and piquant spices. I requested the soup, which can only be ordered after 3PM, to be on the spicy side.

A quick squeeze of lime helped bind the hearty broth and shredded chicken, while the tender corn hominy, though sparsely allocated on the bottom of the bowl, provided the requisite pozole-ness. This version wasn't quite as good as the pozole at La Casita Mexicana, where the purple corn kernels are "popped" to ensure proper cooking and texture. Still, this version from Bayless was utterly authentic and comforting, a necessary afternoon source of warmth in the Windy City.

I didn't get to try Xoco's tortas, though they looked amazing. Each one is warmed up and finished off in the wood-fired oven, a nod to the food's street origins (wood fires on the street? Count me in!). My only qualm with Xoco might be that the prices can run pretty high. I'm sure all the wood going into the oven, premium ingredients, and convenient location all play a part. It's still the easiest and most accessible of the Rick Bayless lineup in Chicago, and worth a visit if you're in town.


Xoco
449 North Clark Street (enter on Illinois St.)
Chicago, IL 60654
Phone: 312-334-3688

Hours:
Tuesday–Thursday: 7am–9pm
Friday: 7am–10pm
Saturday: 8am–10pm
Sunday–Monday: Closed