RH - Andaz Hotel - West Hollywood, CA - Southwestern French Cuisine

Let's just say I was shocked to read our beloved Times restaurant critic S. Irene Virbila annouce that she'd finally beaten the bloggers and food cognescenti at their game. Virtually no one in the entire city was aware of the developing kitchen helmed by chef Sebastien Archambault, a former Michelin-starred chef from Corsica. The tall, dark-haired fellow has a military air about him, a command that's no doubt useful in the sleek, open kitchen at the redesigned RH (for Riot Hyatt).



Previously, I'd read a piece in the Times disparaging the extremely expensive fare at RH. I'd read about other bloggers who'd reveled on the rooftop, and even a fellow of mine who enjoyed a full dinner there. But I didn't garner the kind of sheer delight Ms. Virbila displayed in her resounding 3-star review, so I made sure to visit RH before the hoards from Sunset Strip stormed the place.



Entering the restaurant is certainly a little confusing, with no clear cut entrance, but perhaps it was because I entered through the main hotel entrance. There's another entrance to the side that takes you straight to the well-lit bar, with clear views of the neon Sunset Strip and racing cars.



Instead of a bread course, the meal is preluded by a nifty plate of crudites, raw market-fresh vegetables like purple cauliflower, long radishes, and cherry tomatoes with a tangy, creamy perigourdine sauce much like a tarragon flavored ranch. The veggies were sourced from the Santa Monica Farmer's Market, perhaps the best place to get top-quality produce. These plates can be replaced upon request, making veggie lovers like myself quite happy. Don't worry though, regular bread comes as well.



Another good starter is the half-dozen Fanny Bay oysters, large, meaty specimens with a mild flavor and a fresh taste. The mignonette wasn't necessary, but added a bright tang and bite. Pork sausage is a typical accompaniment to oysters in Southwest France, so we happily munched on it.



The foie gras terrine. I've had the stellar foie gras torchon at The French Laundry, a $30 supplement, but this two-slivered dish, sided with thin slices of duck breast, an arugula salad and monbazillac jelly (a gelee made with Monbazillac wine). I have to say, the quality of this foie gras rivals the French Laundry. This version at RH is only a notch below the French Laundry's because it doesn't the perfect consistency of the torchon, but the flavor still shines, seasoned with a light dusting of salt. Foie gras is truly best when cold, not seared as it often is at other restaurants.



Perigordine egg is a ramekin of poached egg with a sliver of foie gras and dusting of summer truffles, perhaps not the intense Perigordine truffle but still an earthy complement to the gooey comfort textures in the dish. Spooned over wands of buttered bread, it makes for a luxurious treat with the same fantastic foie gras as the terrine dish. The veal sweatbreads and morels in puff pastry (or en croute) came with a creamy madeira sauce, breaking into bite size pieces nicely. The mild, luscious flavor of the sweatbreads paired beautifully with the earthy and complex morels. If this mild-earthy flavor profile continues throughout Southwestern French cuisine, sign me up!



The celebrated confit, which Virbila claimed was the best she'd had in LA, might be eligible for the title. The crispy skin resembled brittle pork skin, much like chicarrones from your local bike vendor in East LA. The flavor was immeasurably rich and almost addictive. The tender flesh fell apart with a fork and went nicely with the heavily seasoned wedges of potato.



The 12-hour pork shoulder with roasted apricots wasn't the most imaginative dish, but the flavors were good. The meat was a tad dry though the tart, sweet fruit was a nice side. The beef cheek had an incredibly tender texture, almost silken and melt-in-your-mouth worthy. The rich, dark sauce worked well. This was supreme comfort, with roasted root vegetables, though perhaps out of season in August, reminding one of the upcoming autumn season.

We also ordered the luxe burger, which comes with foie gras and truffle fries. While the duck fat fries were very good, the burger fell flat. The meat to bun ratio was lacking and the flavor of the patty was deficient. The foie gras didn't add much flavor. The $26 price tag was perhaps the only item not worth the price on the menu.



Rum baba was our only dessert, a rum-soaked donut topped with fresh whipped cream and placed on a bed of sweet papaya and mango salad. It was a refreshing finish to the meal.

The wine list wasn't particularly interesting, but based on input from our excellent server, who was incredibly attentive to our table, they're working on revamping the wine list. They need to take advantage of the sleek wine case displaying hundreds of wines. We had a bottle of Mendocino Gewurtztraminer that was moderately priced and paired nicely with most dishes.

RH might not have the exciting factor of a place like The Bazaar or even Animal, but the fare is completely authentic and purely comforting. The dining room has a clean, sharp design that would appeal to visitors from out of town. The open kitchen displays the well-executed efforts of Chef Sebastien. And for $55 a person, including wine, tax, and tip, it's actually a steal for this part of town. It easily overshadows anything on the Sunset Strip.

RH
Andaz West Hollywood
8401 W Sunset Blvd
West Hollywood, CA 90069
(323) 785-6090