August 08, 2009

Comme Ca - West Hollywood - The Perfect Burger?

Just like that, the NYT claimed its culinary authority and pronounced a slick brasserie in WeHo as the greatest burger joint in the world. Actually, it said that the perfect burger, the quintessential creation of ground meat and bun, is created at this David Meyers outlet along the fashionable part of Melrose, mere steps from the skinny mannequins at Diane Von's and Marc Jacob's ateliers.

DSC_8590 Fries

The burger, constructed from the Platonian 80-20 blend of beef, minced to a tender grind, is supposedly only available at lunch. At 16 dollars, it's not the average price one pays for a burger, but in this part of town, expect that sort of premium. The main dining room's white and dark outlines, the bright skylights, the slick chairs - it's all a recipe for a swell lunch for celebs (we ran into an actor on NCIS, Josh's former employer), scenesters, yuppies, and foodies.

Apparently the toasted bun was the product of over a dozen prototypes, and it held together perfectly as I ate the burger. An offshoot of a brioche, it wasn't as buttery and flimsy a brioche as something you'd expect at 25 Degrees. It also wasn't as thick as the brioche bun on Rustic Canyon's burger.

Holding the burger

The meat didn't advertise a special aging or pedigree. At Comme Ca, they sear the patty, then broil it like a steak. The broiling keeps the juices inside the patty, a rather genius exercise required for one this thick. The meat was generously seasoned and bit perfectly, with the spicy (in a horseradish way), creamy onions which served as the only accompiment, worked to foil the rich patty. If you're looking for a burger that screams "meat-lover," this may be the burger for you. I loved how they dared to serve it perfectly medium rare, perhaps even a rare-plus. Bloody is a key word, though the term is misleading since really the "redness" is a credit to myoglobin, red pigment in the meat, not actual blood (hemoglobin).

Cross section

A note of the fries, a cone of delicious pomme frites. They're a marvel: crispy and well-seasoned, and perhaps the best I've had other than Wurstkuche, whose thicker offering works better with their thicker sauces. At Comme Ca, expect a tangy aioli that's both addictive and perfectly complementary.

The burger at Bradley Ogden might be a hair better, a credit to the Waygu beef and thinner construction of the patty that yields a more ideal radio of bun to burger. Still, Comme Ca might be one of the best in LA, along with 25 Degrees, Rustic Canyon, and La Grande Orange. A review of La Grande Orange's poblano chile burger wrapped in English muffin will come soon.

Comme Ca
8479 Melrose Ave
West Hollywood, CA 90069
(323) 782-1104

8 comments:

MyLastBite said...

I've been to Comme Ca several times and enjoyed the frites with other dishes. Going back for the burger now!

glutster said...

ahh...still remember that tweet you did about this place when you were eating it, sounded revelatory even back then!

see you soon hopefully, man...

mattatouille said...

Jo: the burger's definitely worth trying when you have a hankering for some bloody (per se) meat. Do it!

Javier: see you tomorrow for some delicious eats at La Casita Mexicana

Food, she thought. said...

The best burger I have ever eaten was recently at Spago Vegas. I ate the Comme Ca Burger last summer, and while good, solidly good, better than Father's Office, Spago's is better.

Gastronomer said...

Looks and sounds like a meaty burger dream! Love that Comme Ca gives their fries and aoli as much love as the burger.

Joshua Lurie said...

The Comme Ca burger is very good and might be the best in L.A., but there's no such thing as "perfect." People can always make improvements.

Alba Truffles said...

It looks like a great burger. I'm curious on your thoughts of Umami. I loved the place and good mention of 25 Degrees. That place doesn't get enough respect, especially that brioche bun. They will even cook your burger rare.

Big Ghost said...

Gahh, that closeup is the most gorgeous shot of a burger ever!