Birrieria Chalio: East LA Braised Goat Paradise

I know you all want the story/review of my recent trip to the French Laundry, but I have yet to upload my photos onto Flickr, which I use as a vehicle to post my photos onto this blog. Until then, you'll have to be satisfied with a quick review of a great birrieria that Javier of The Glutster pointed us to on a sun-soaked Sunday afternoon in East LA. Apparently Javier's been coming here since childhood and gnawing on the amazing goat bones that feature some of the most succulent, tasty birria I've had.



Something about this worn-in joint along an anonymous boulevard in East LA is comforting - a familiarity that reminds me long summer days growing up on Cerritos. I recall going to Gil Mok, or Corner Place, in Cerritos where plump banquettes and the smell of grilling meat beckons you. At Birrieria Chalio, you get some similar with worn out booths and the smell of herbs and roasted meat. Actually birria is a braise of goat meat, simmered for many hours in a concoction of spices and herbs until the meat is tender.



Tender's probably too light a word, as is succulent. The first bite of this pleasantly seasoned, richly fatty goat meat sends one into a mild euphoria, or perhaps the age-old comfort that our ancestors had as early in their fields after braising a prized goat from their herd. Contrast the backbones, featuring large fatty chunks that remind one of short rib, to the stringier rib meat, which has hints of the meadows from which this goat fed (actually probably just livestock feed - I doubt this goat was a Niman Ranch ideal).



The meat has a red tinge from a generous helping of tomatillos and chiles, neither of which overpower the meat. The birria isn't a gamey or offensive meat, but a richly textured one that stands on its own against braised pork, duck, or even beef.






Topped with the appropriate accoutrements of lemon, diced onion, and cilantro, and wrapped in pillowy thick tortillas resembling baby bibs, it makes for the perfect dip into the broth straddling the meat. Be sure to add a bit of the intensely spicy habanero sauce that adds a requisite kick, it'll round out the melange of flavors ranging from acidic to hearty to meaty to even a bit grassy. Wash it all down with a cucumber lime agua fresca, just syrupy and refreshing enough to cleanse the palate for another bite of this luscious meat.



Birrieria Chalio's worth the trek to East LA, but for Javier, it's just a hop-skip away to his childhood haunt. Lucky guy.