Benito's & Apple Pan: Not Bad for the Westside

I admit that I'm not prepared to be fully immersed in the most authentic Mexican cuisine. By that I mean the stuff that's reflective of what you can find in Mexico, and in good restaurants in Los Angeles. I remember first making my foray into this shop at the Beverly location about ten years ago. We stumbled to this rather hidden location in West LA after we polished off a few dishes at Sasaya. Admittedly, the food at Benito's won't conjure of dreams of an idyllic Mexico or even a half-decent commercialized spot in some South-of-the-border city. But hey, when it's way past 11and you're stuck way west of La Cienega (shoot even past the 405), you don't have many options. I haven't had the controversial Tito's Tacos, with their infamous hardshell tacos, but other than Benito's, what can one really find in terms of good tacos? I should come back and try the machaca, shredded beef with eggs.

We chose a carne asada burrito, chock full of things that muddle the flavor of good flap meat (skirt steak). Guacamole, beans, rice, etc. Still, the construction of this burrito wasn't bad and the meat was flavorful enough, with a decent bite. More than anything I wished they could have stuffed some french fries in here like a true "California" burrito from San Diego, but alas, no pommes frites prepared here.

We got an order of the rolled tacos, a fancy way of saying the uber-gringo "taquito", something you've probably eaten more in frozen form than in fresh. Benito's version (actually their specialty) is also serviceable at this hour (and this level of fluorescent brightness - I gotta say the bright light was absolutely killing me after eating in the dim Sasaya next door). Covered in guacamole and a dusting of probably-fake cheese, they're crunchy, greasy, and well, oddly satisfying. Remember the context - late night, westside. Those are usually a problem since this side of town doesn't like those two put together.

We did have a supremely happy ending to this Westside story (harhar). We drove over to Apple Pan for a mighty fine pecan pie, an old-school construction of brown sugar and baked pecans in a lovely crust and sided with two lovely mumps of old-fashioned vanilla. See how we attack (well that "we" in this pic is Danny and Christine, I'm sadly snapping the shot).

I had to take a final shot of Manny, our brusque but still classy in a diner-way attendant who insisted on putting his paper hat back on for this shot. He's been working at Apple Pan longer than I've been alive. And he's part of the package of why this place is so great. The burgers are decent, nothing to write home about, but it's the mystique, the aura of Apple Pan's neon glow along Pico in West LA that makes this institution what it is. And I'll take it just like that.


Benito's Taco Shop
11614 Santa Monica Blvd. (at Federal)
Open until 2AM (I think)

Apple Pan
10801 W Pico Blvd
Los Angeles, CA 90064
Open Until 12AM Weekdays + Sunday
Open Until 1Am on Friday & Saturday