January 28, 2009

Ondal 2: Three-Part Flower Crab Stew

Korean "kkote geh" or flower crab, is a popular crab cultured in Asia (thanks to its aqua-culture conducive qualities) and offers a flesh that is more generous than Atlantic or Maryland blue crab but more flavorful than Dungeness crab which is more often consumed here on the West Coast. Ondal 2 (pronounced OOHn-dal), probably the second iteration of such a restaurant, specializes in special stews and soups of this wonderful sea creature in a bright, spacious restaurant in a relatively barren stretch of Washington Blvd just south of Koreatown.

Generally the smallest order of the kkote geh tang, or brothy stew, serves three to four, and considering that Christine and I had just had dinner with my grandparents a few hours earlier, we decided to share the three-crab order for the four of us (Liz and her boyfriend George joined us).

DSC_1202
A prolific spread of banchan, or side dishes, came with our meal (as expected). Notable ones were the raw slices of sweet potato (straight-up from the motherland) and the pickled root to the right. There's also some octopus.
DSC_1206
One of the better banchan that comes is gweh jjang, which is raw crab pieces mixed with a spicy chili pepper sauce. I didn't eat too much of those because I was distracted by the stew.
DSC_1208
However, I wasn't distracted by this ggong-chi gui grilled mackerel pike, a Korean picnic classic that's rich in flavor and very healthy for you. I used to down these suckers by the half-dozen.
DSC_1210
This little pajun was forgettable, too gummy and not very flavorful. One weak point of the meal.
DSC_1212
The first part of our meal was the stew with stuffed crab shells. Mushrooms and bitter greens added flavor while the spicy broth was absolutely delicious. That said, this was just stage one.
DSC_1213
One of the workers prepares the crab pieces for us. Pretty much all of the cooking, while done on the tabletop, was done by the staff, who were very timely and professional.
DSC_1214
They then stir in kong-nah-mul or young bean sprouts, which soak up the broth and get to a transluscent tender in just a few minutes of simmering in the broth.
DSC_1215
Three whole crabs won't feed an army, but the flavor is excellent - succulent and flavorful.
DSC_1226
The next stage of the stew is the soo-jae-bee, or the pieces of dough pulled apart by hand and placed gently in the broth to be cooked like pieces of pasta. Think of fat gangly pieces of dough mainly reserved for noodles floating in a superb seafood brodo.
DSC_1230
We kept thinking they were going to get overcooked, but the staff knows just when they're done - when the starches have released to create a velvety broth and the pasta has been given a gentle, shiny complexion.
DSC_1231
Possibly the best version I've had of this usually homemade dish. Fantastic texture that just soaked up the flavors.
DSC_1235
For the last part, using mainly the broth and other solid ingredients of the stew, the staff creates a delicious fried rice or bokeumbap, the best way to savor every last bit of flavor from the soup. Kimchi is added while additional broth is ladled in to keep it moist. Meanwhile, we finish off the rest of the crab pieces that were floating around and removed from the stew. The rice starts to get crispy on the bottom. This crispy bottom is a gourmand's delight (ask any paella-lover).
DSC_1238
This is Korean comfort food heaven. Note also the dong-chimi in the background, icy-cold pickled water from kimchi water that was a delicious foil to the hot, spicy, gently burnt rice. The staff advised to drink the water in between bites of the rice, which was just about perfect.
DSC_1239
To finish, we get a serving of literally ice-cold shik-hwe, which was extremely refreshing. It was so good I drank up Liz's since she was so full she wouldn't have any.

Overall the meal is very good, though perhaps a larger order should be had for groups of 4. Every part of the meal was a wonderful iteration of the flower crab's flavors, which was fresh, pristine, spicy, and rich. Cost is around $20 a person, which is reasonable, though not particularly a bargain for Koreatown. Still, for a once-in-a-while treat (and culinary adventure), you couldn't do much better than Ondal 2.

Ondal 2
4566 W Washington Blvd
Los Angeles, CA 90016

(323) 933-3228

9 comments:

pleasurepalate said...

I love Ondal 2. Looking at your photos and reading your review reminded me that I haven't been back in awhile and should make a return trip soon. :)

H. C. said...

oh geez, that looks amazing even though I am sure I would be too full to eat the 2nd half of this meal. Thanks for sharing!

Marie said...

Fantastic pictures! I love the many stages of deliciousness of the meal. I need to get myself to Ondal 2. Hopefully, my boyfriend will be willing to accompany me on such a food marathon!

MyLastBite said...

I've never had Ondal. Thanks for the beautiful post.

mattatouille said...

abby: thanks for the compliment. you should go back before the weather gets too warm.

H.C.: you won't be too full if you get what I had with four people. It's very manageable.

marie: thank you! it's really quite fun eating this meal. you should do it!

MyLastBite: it's worth the trip.

Danny said...

I'm a big fan of Ondal 2. I was just there was Napkin last week. You really can't go with wrong with the crab soup, suhjehbee and bokumbap. I think the bokumbap is the star of the show at Ondal. Plus, the Shihkae is pretty good stuff.

mattatouille said...

Danny: I'm glad you like it! We should go there again sometime...well maybe not. We have too much in SGV to cover!

Joshua Lurie said...

Ondal 2 is a place I've been wanting to try for awhile, and now that you documented the experience with such great photos, it moves to the front of my to-try list. Great post.

Sylvie said...

My hubby and I eat at Ondal 2 regularly. We love it. My favorite is the Seafood stew. We have had most of the other items on the menu but come back for this. If you get the seafood stew, the highlight for me are the sea squirts. The yummy, salty flavor of the sea is a treat. We also have the noddles and take it home for a next day meal.