November 18, 2008

Food Bloggers: Bane or Boon?

With the recent chatter on Eater about fellow food blogger KevinEats and a rant by "blogger" (but not food blogger or foodie), I find it appropriate to ruminate on the topic of food bloggers and to a lesser extend, foodies. I discussed previously the differences between Chowhounders and Yelpers, but in this case I'm talking about a newer, fresher group of "floggers" (food bloggers, as my blog-aggregator junkie cousin once dubbed).

I met last week with 8 other food bloggers who prowl the streets of Los Angeles looking for a good meal. I've found this group a bit more agreeable than the standard-issue Yelper (though there are a number of very knowledgeable Yelpers) or Chowhounder (many of them double up from their blogs). I'll be posting the review of that meal at Ford's Filling Station soon, but until then let's talk a bit about what a food blogger is.

A food blogger is very simply a camera-equipped reporter and reviewer of restaurants, eateries, bars, and other food-related establishments such as wine shops, coffeeshops, and specialty grocery stores. They come high and low, from different ethnicities, ages, and backgrounds, but generally they tend to be younger, more technologically inclined, and on the cutting edge of the local culinary scene. They expend the most time and resources compared the denizens of other internet foodies such as Yelpers and Chowhounders because of the following reasons. They have to publish their own content; they have to design their own website (simple or complicated); they have to organize and edit their own photos; they have to market their blog through Foodbuzz or related aggregator; they generally aren't financially motivated. Of course, Yelpers and Chowhounders generally aren't in it for the money, but bloggers have to spend more time publishing their content and since time is money, they've obviously put their treasure where their heart is.

Most of the time food bloggers are chronicling their various eating adventures for the sole purpose of documenting them for their readership. Sometimes food bloggers are more about cooking, like Chez Pim and David Lebovitz. Others eat mainly at high-end restaurants like KevinEats. Some like the cutting-edge, underground, un-heard of places like Tony C of Sinosoul. Others are more general like Gourmet Pigs, which isn't a bad thing at all. Some are more like beat writers, like FoodGPS, which covers Los Angeles restaurant news better than any site (though he has great reviews as well).

Food bloggers come in every shape and style, many impelled by their pursuits, passions, and backgrounds, which makes that microcosm both interesting and personalized. My girlfriend Christine fondly recalls reading Eat, Drink & Be Merry or Daily Gluttony as if she lived vicariously through them. That's the beauty of food blogs, they're personal food memoirs, digitalized for the Web 2.0 age. They're the dearth of traditional media like the LA Times despite lower journalistic quality of content because they're quicker, more relevant, personalized, and easily accessible.

With the recent backlash on Daily Beast, it's becoming more apparent that "floggers" are becoming a nuissance. Jessi Klein, who writes the article, is fed up with the oversexualization, the overhyped drama, the ridiculous exultation of all things food, especially in the verbal sense, by foodies who prowl restaurants with their obnoxious cameras. True, sometimes foodies, and especially floggers get out of hand. They romanticize things that don't matter in two weeks. Like Jose Andres' Bazaar. I guarantee you in LA it'll be blase in 6 months, perhaps a year. Remember when Gordon Ramsay, Gordon effing RAMSAY opened a restaurant in LA? Yawn. Thomas Keller's opening Bouchon in Beverly freakin Hills! When's lunch?

But food bloggers are officially a force, especially with the young guard that's surprisingly very Asian (though not necessarily, there are plenty that aren't - FoodGPS, Diglounge, FoodMarathon, la.foodblogging, etc.), but also very metropolitan and up with the culinary zeitgeist. That makes them the influencers, people who can direct the hearts and stomaches of other foodies and diners in large cities like Los Angeles. There're here to stay, so publicists, promoters, and restaurateurs will have to deal with it.

That said, I think food bloggers should stay away from going the way of Chowhound or Yelp where it's all about criticism. Bloggers should highlight what's worth consumers' time and money. They should reveal what's notable and compelling in the local food scene. They shouldn't ever demand anything different from the ordinary diner. They should be polite and keep those flashes covered. If you can't get good photos, get a Fuju Finepix F30 which has great lowlight capabilities (thanks for that tip Kevin), or employ a fast aperture lens on your DSLR. I'm liking my friend's 24mm f2.8 or my 24-60mm f2.8, but I plan to upgrade to a 35mm f2.0 for even faster work (lower light). Or go eat at lunch, for pete's sake, when the sun's out. Nothing beats natural light.

Most of all, keep blogging and telling the world about what's worth eating. I'm doing my part and I can't always keep up, but I think local food bloggers are doing a service to all.

11 comments:

H. C. said...

Well thought out and written, though with the term floggers I feel like I should be carrying a whip -- of food justice! muwahahaha *ahem*

I think a lot of the conversation sparked by Jessi & Kevin's post is a lot of groupthink, with people on both camps upping the ante and making increasingly more pointed/polarized/inflammatory remarks. For middle-of-the-road me, it just makes for a great wanky time-killing read.

Can't wait for your roasted pig post -- I'm still doing photos edit on that!

enomooshiki said...

well said matt

now, go write more about food xP

Aji De Mani said...

right on!

Aaron said...

Interesting post Matt. I have met many food bloggers over the past few months, not to mention the dozens of blogs I go through. It seems to me that there is a trend towards a holy-than-thou attitude when it comes to food criticism. Ultimately, I have learned much more about the blogger than the food they eat. Restaurant reviews are a dime a dozen, but it's the personalities in the blogs that bring me back. If I've gained anything since I started blogging, it's a good circle of like-minded friends.

Loving Annie said...

Good Thursday to you Matt.

Like anything, a group of people fascinated by something that is your passion - or becoming one - can either be a delight - or a pain in the patootie - to know :)

I love the good restaurant review blogs I've come across, Kevin Eats and Refined Palate being two of them so far.

Beginning a restaurnt review blog gives me a reason to go ut and really enjoy my food, focus on it, relish it - whereas otherwise I used to just eat it and the usually forget about it for the most part.

mattatouille said...

Thanks for the comment Annie. Yes, it's quite refreshing to meet people who share the same passion as you do. as for Refined Palate, what's the URL?

kevinEats said...

Good work Matt. That was a worthwhile read.

I'm surprised at the amount of backlash that Bazaar caused. It is curious how everybody was focusing solely on the dishes that I didn't care for. Not one person mentioned the courses I enjoyed. Human nature to dwell on the negative I suppose?

BTW, Refined Palate is: http://lizziee.wordpress.com

Exile Kiss said...

Hi Mattatouille,

Great blog and article! :) I just found your site from H.C. Thanks for your thoughtful insight (and keep at it! :)

Pepsi Monster said...

Hey Matthew,

It's funny about what you wrote because I just have that same problem from the so called food expert who only keyed in on a few words and ready to tear the entire review apart.

Just like the others have pointed out already, it's more about the personality of the blog that help capturing your attention to come back to the same blog. We all have different point of views and opinions on a certain place or food. There is no "one right answer" as someone vainly trying to suggest.

Love reading this article. Keep up the good work!

Cristina said...

I recently came across your blog and have been reading along. I thought I would leave my first comment. I don't know what to say except that I have enjoyed reading. Nice blog. I will keep visiting this blog very often.


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Brooke said...

Great post. I appreciate you breaking it down for the people. Food bloggers are a very diverse breed. Not all bloggers are created equal or similar in perspective.

Anyone who blogs need to be aware of the power of their words (and photos) and be fully prepared to face the consequences (and benefits) of making their opinion known to the greater public. I.e., better know what you're talking about when you step up to the mike, so to speak...