Palate Food + Wine: Gourmet Glendale

I've been a resident of Glendale for over 15 years. Glendale had one slightly remarkable restaurant (besides the solid Middle Eastern fare and legendary Porto's) and it was in the space that Palate now occupies on South Brand Blvd. That restaurant was called Cinnabar and I recall taking my parents and grandparents there, where they were horrified by the trendy New American cuisine with Asian inflections before their eyes. The massive Buddha statue and scents of incense turned them (and me) off right away.

A few weeks ago, just before the Ms. Virbila's review in the LAT, I hastily visited Palate with my foodie father on a quiet Monday evening. We didn't have a reservation so we sat at the nicely appointed bar.

We order two short glasses of white wine and paired it with a slew of seafood dishes. A loaf of wheaty bread and soft sheet of butter with sel gris sprinkled on top started it off.



I wanted to try something edgier, meaner - perhaps the pork belly which Virbila lauded in her review. Sadly, my dad has been experiencing some digestive issues, with high stomach acids leading to easy upset stomachs. We settled for the porkfolio, a battery of charcuterie meats that would make Michael Ruhlman smile.



Also, it was my first attempt at lardo (reading of the fabled fat from J.Gold and my other foodie friend Daniel). The plate was well constructed and generous in its portioning.

Next came the small plates - halibut, scallops and potatoes. The halibut was a tad dry but it was well seasoned. Buttery clams, micro greens, and a textbook velvety sauce rounded out the dish. Scallops were well pan-fried but the pairing with shelling beans seems an odd textural combination. The sauce was also a perfect velvet, but overall the dish missed the mark because of the aforementioned combo. The potatoes were well cooked and the accompanying onions were amazingly caramelized. The watery sauce seemed extraneous though.





We ended with a trio of cheeses, including a strong blue cheese and an aged cheddar, which my dad loved.



I'm not sure if Virbila's review was appropriate for three stars, but I would have given just under that for execution. I need to return and try the meat dishes. The dishes were well composed and ingredients were top notch, but the pairings were often unusual or misplaced. Still, it's the best food one can get in Glendale, so I shall be wise to return.